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Google Play Music Internet Radio Raspberry Pi and Arduino All code and CAD drawings can be found in the GitHub repo.

Before we begin I should probably point out that a reasonably good understanding of electronics and Linux makes this project a lot easier, especially since my Instructables are probably not the easiest to follow (I do try my best), however feel free to ask if something isn't clear enough. ATmega 328 with Arduino bootloader, you can but them blank and flash then yourself or pre flashed with a bootloader) Raspberry Pi (512MB version if possible, because you know, more memory is better. butseriously I haven't tested with a 256MB version, but it should still work) Digital potentiometers (logarithmic taper (we'll be using it to attenuate audio) i2c (from the Pi), aDS1807 will do) Amplifiers (I used pre built modules but feel free to build your own if you feel up to it) DC DC converters (12v to 5v, 600mA output, isolated) Rotary encoders (from font panel, cursor movement and volume) An LCD (4 rows, 20 columns works for me, if you have songs with really long names maybe get a 40 column one) As for tools, you just need all the standard electronics and woodworking tools, a few others which may be useful: Bus Pirate (I don't actually have one, but they are very useful, alternatively you can do what I do and write Arduino scripts to make an Arduino act like a Pus Pirate to some degree) Laser cutter/engraver (not essential, but makes production of mounting hardware and front panels SOmuch easier) Router (for construction of enclosure) Accuratecallipers(essential for measuring sizes for panels and mounting hardware) I think that is about it for specialist parts and tools, but of course I would highly recommend you read through the entire Instructable before starting work on this project.In that case first up is the electronics which control communication between the radio and the user, in my radio the included 6 buttons, two rotary encoders which also have a switch for when they are pressed and a 4 row, 20 column backlit LCD, the majority of this is controlled using a ATmega 328p which interfaces with the Raspberry Pi using RS232 (over a level converter, since the Pi has a logic level of 3.3v and the Arduino is 5v), the one exception is the LCD backlight which is switched on and off using a GPIO pin from the Pi.So here is an overview of what IO devices were actually connected to the Arduino, how they were connected and why: Pins 0 and 1 connected to the Raspberry Pi GPO header through a MOSFET level converter, this was for the serial communication between the Pi and the Arduino. The front panel button were connected to ADC pins 0 to 5 with either pandora for web an externalpull up or pull down resistor (whichever is easiest, inhindsightpull up would have been easier then I would only need ground on my front panel board). The LCD is connected on digital pins 8 to 13, theactualpin assignment is not important at this stage as it can be configured in the Arduino script. The encoder buttons are on pins 6 and 7, using the internal pull up resistor. The encoders are on pins 3 and 5 and 2 and 4, it is important to have at least one interrupt pin per encoder, this will greatlyimprovethe performance. Most of this can be seen easily on the schematic which has all of theserelevantsections where can i buy a pandora bracelet annotated, note that this is theschematicfor the main board only, so the actual devices are shown as pin headers, I will go over wiring the actual devices in the next step.Before starting this step it is a good idea to know roughly what size you want your radio to be, as this will limit the maximum size of your front button/encoder panel.Once you know roughly what size you need to make your front panel you can design it however you like to match the style of enclosure you are planning, the only constraints are that the use the same Arduino code as me (at least without vast changes) it will need to use the same type and function of inputs.My front panel was simply built on stripboard and bolted to an Acrylic panel which would later be mounted in the enclosure.On the LCD module I soldered on a small breakout board which tool the 6 and 4 pin ribbon cables which came from the main board and connected them to the appropriate pins on the LCDs 16 pin header.a 5v and ground wire was needed between the LCD breakout board and button/encoderboard as the encoders needed a groundreferenceand the buttons needed a 5vreferencein order to workproperly.Step 3: Arduino ScriptShow All ItemsIf you kept most of the general circuit design similar to mine thentherewill be very few changes that have to be made to the scriptbeforeuploadingto the Arduino, although it is a good idea to have a look through this list to see if any apply to you: You are using pull downresistors on the ADCStarting on line 174 you will see a lot of tests that look like this: analogRead(PLAY_ADC) = and you should be fine. Pin configurationYou will almost certainly have to change some pin assignments, this is done from lines 26 to 60, all the pins are welllabelledin the script. You will also need someadditionalArduino libraries before the script will compile, namely Streaming, CmdMessenger and Encoder. Once theese are in your libraries folder you should be good to go.Once you have made all your changes, upload the script to the Arduino either by using an Arduino board to upload it or connecting a serial connection to the IC in circuit (I just used a Uno board, it is easier).Here may be a good time to build the circuit so far on breadboard and test to ensure that everything is working as expected and you get the correct serial data when input devices are actuated and that the LCD responds correctly to serial commands. It is not essential that you do this here, if you prefer you can test the entire circuit before it pandora shop online australia is moved to the PCB.The next part of theelectronicscontrol the path of the audio signal between the output of the Raspberry Pi and the speakers, although I have not used them in my radio I also included headers on the PCB for a line out (for connection to an external amplifier) and headphone out (for headphones ;).A summary of the audio signal path is as follows: Raspberry Pi output, close to an unattenuated signal, I used alsamixer to set the output to 0dB. Line out header, if used this would be a 5 pin 3.5mm jack which breaks the signal path if a plug is present in the socket. Digital potentiometers, these are used to attenuate the audio signal prior to amplification,controlled and poweredby the Raspberry Pi over i2c. Headphone output, outputs attenuated audio output for use with headphones. Attenuation potentiometers,I added a footprint on the board pandora bracelets sale charms for this but just bypassed it as it was not really needed. Amplifiers, 2 12W amplifier modules.

Speakers, make noise :) If you do not intend to use the line and headphone out then it is probably best to omit them from your design altogether.My audio electronics are probably not the best designed, and I certainly did not use the best quality speakers (mainly due to size restrictions to fit them in theencloseI had designed) so feel free toimprovethis in any way you can.Step 5: Other ElectronicsShow All ItemsOther electronics needed to make this work: Amplifierand LCD Backlight power switchingThis was donefrom two GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi (since I had maxed out the Arduino), all this involved was a MOSFET level converter switching an PNPtransistor.

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